Day 32 - The day!

June 14th

Arca O Pino - Santiago de Compostela

Rainy Day, we left the albergue at 6:00 and was dark outside. In a corner of the street in Arca we meet Julian again with his flashlight. He stayed in Santa Irene and got up today at 4:00 am. We walked with him today for almost 10:00am when he stopped at a bar to have some coffee. It was raining still and kind of cold, long roads without anybody. Sometimes I felt maybe I was taking a wrong patch. So after a long time without anything but trees I arrived at Monte do Gozo and a tour bus was parked there. One lady from the bus was waiting in the corner of the street and clapping to everyone that was passing there and saying: "YOU MADE IT, CONGRATULATIONS". It was amazing to hear that, she was what I needed at the right moment. So good I felt that I decided to keep on going without stopping at Monte do Gozo, I only entered in the church, made a prayer and left. 30 more minutes we are crossing the bridge that takes us to the outside of Santiago. After many days and many things we arrived.

Cant explain with words the feeling of this moment.

The cathedral filled with people and some tents outside from the students protesting against the Spanish government. We enter in the church with backpack and rain coat, I wanted to have the same energy that I had walking with all that for the last 30+ days. After hugging Santiago and visited his bones we took a place close to the altar for the pilgrim celebration at 12:00. There we met again our Italian friend sitting in front of us, our lovely Brazilian friends Jeane and Bel, Julian from Madrid, sweet Brazilian Maria Luiza and many more.

No botafumeiro in this mass today : (

We left to have some food and shelter. We all decided to stay at Seminario Menor where later on Elza arrived too.

What an AMAZING day!

Day 31

June 13th

Melide - Arca O Pino - 33.3km

The walk today was similar to yesterday except that today is raining. We passed by Arzua where they have some wonderful cheese. I got a bocadillo with their cheese and it was very tasty. We were planning to stay in Santa Irene today but that was not really a town, the albergue is right off the main road. Better to go and stay at Arca O Pino, will be easier for tomorrow. Oh my, we are almost there and I can't believe. In Arca we met with Maria Luiza again, she is with a lot pain on her knees but we convinced her to go with us until Santiago tomorrow. Peter and Hony from Hungary are here too. We enjoyed some dinner with Maria Luiza. Her funny friend from Korea is here. A young girl that loves to dance. I cant think of anything today but getting to Santiago tomorrow. All this time waiting for that. I called my parents in Brazil to let they know we are fine and should be arriving in Santiago tomorrow.

Day 30

June 12th

Hospital de la Cruz - Melide - 28.7km

This morning we left very early and Julian was up. Most of the walk today is inside and out some forest passing by the road sometimes. When we pass by the road we can see the tour buses with people coming here to see the pilgrims. Sometimes they drop the people in one point and wait for them far ahead. Julian is going to meet his friend in Melide so he is in a hurry to get there. We are walking almost at the same pace so we are seeing each other all the time. So funny! We are staying in Melide tonight and is Sunday the city is busy. This town is famous for their octopus asJulian told me and we got try some. Humm it was delicious. Even Kevin liked it. The municipal albergue is full, so many people partying at the bedrooms. This is when you can feel that the end is coming :(. The Norwegian and French couples are staying here but in a private albergue. There is many people here that are only doing the last 100 km and they are feeling sick because they walked too far too fast. The ambulance came at night for a girl but I am not sure whats happen to her. I went to a Mass in a beautiful church in the top of a hill.

Day 29

June 11th

Barbadelo - Hospital de la Cruz - 31.3km

Today we passed by Portomarin, very interesting city located by Mino river. We bought some food, visit the church, took a time at the park looking the river and left. We norwegian and french couples were going up and we were going down back on the path. Tonight we were planning to stay in Gonzar, the Xunta albergue is located on the main road. We arrived in Gonzar around 12:50 pm, we were the first ones to get there. The lady came and open the albergue at 1:00pm and as we noticed the city is getting ready for some big party and the concert is right beside the building. She informed us about the party and we decided to leave. Maybe we are not staying here tonight, so next town is Hospital de la Cruz with only on albergue and this is right off the main road as well. Simple but organized. The Madri guy is staying here too but we don't know anybody else here. We had some lunch at El Labrador restaurant beside the albergue. The food was delicious!

Its amazing to realize that all we need in life is shelter, food and love!

Day 28

June 10th

Samos - Barbadelo - 18km

We got up early but Kenji was gone when we woke up. And my body was so sore all day. It was like I was walking on slow mode. Maybe because I dont want to leave the Camino and we are almost there. We passed by Barbadelo around 12:30pm and I couldn't go further. Decided to stay here. Soon the Hungarians and Norwegian/French arrived too. These albergues in Galicia are much more simple. They have kitchens but no silverware or pans. The bunk beds have names all over it. It makes me sad cause I can feel the camino is coming to and end. For dinner we went to a nice albergue/restaurant with the Norwegian and french couples. They are so lovely! We had a great time. Peter and Hony stayed at the albergue because she was not feeling too well. The guy from Madri Julian is staying here too.

Day 27

June 9th

O Cebreiro - Samos - 32km

It was a long walk down hill today. A lot people walking now, very busy. It don't seems as charming as before. I am not sure why. 

Too noisy, too many people..

the walk from Triacastela to Samos was long, I am not sure if we took a wrong way or what but it took forever. When I saw Samos down there I almost tossed myself down hill. My whole body was hurting. This city is enchanting, mainly because of the beautiful Benedictine Monastery where we are staying tonight. When we got in front of the albergue Maria Luiza was there, it is always so nice to see her. She was very happy to see us. Later Kenji arrived with his face hurt, I understood that he fell on his face down the hill. Maybe he had the same idea I had but he actually did it  Poor Kenji! We went on a tour inside the monastery and later assisted the Mass with the monks singing. Very pretty! For dinner we went to the restaurant across the street and 2 guys doing the camino by bike joined us. They were fun!

Day 26

June 8th

Trabadelo - O Cebreiro - 18.1 km

I took my time today to get there but maybe I am so used to walk that was 11am when we arrive in El Cebreiro. It was cold and windy. The albergue is close until 1pm and is so cold outside. We left our backpacks there in the line with the Italians and went out to have some lunch. Oh my, it was the best food of the entire camino. Traditional Pilgrim menu and I had chicken legs, they were cage free chicken. You could feel the taste. We left just on time to get back on the line that now was much bigger. 

After shower and rest I went to the famous church for some peace time and Maria Luiza was there. It was amazing to see her there. She is feeling better but her knees are not perfect still. On my way up to town early today a man took a picture of me crossing the border to Galicia and now he is sitting in front of the church begging. There are many pilgrims that don't have any many during their journey. I felt so bad for him because of the weather. 

I finally was able to confess today :).

It was cold all day and we still don't have sleeping bag, the Italians were so worry about us sleeping at night without blankets. I guess we are used to now.

Day 25

June 7th

Ponferrada - Trabadelo - 34.8km

Today we decided to walk as much we could because they say that the way to El Cebreiro is not easy. Walking longer today makes us with not so much for the next day where we are planning to stay in El Cebreiro.

We made a stop in Villafranca del Bierzo to visit the church and to have some lunch. The American/French girl was there and she had a coffee with us. They have a lot of tourists here. 

We kept on going until exhausted stop in Trabadelo. Bel, Jeane and Sinval are here and we are having dinner together with some local wine. Had a nice time!

Day 24

June 6th

Foncebadon - Ponferrada - 28.6km

This morning we arrived at the "La Cruz de Ferro", an iron cross where we leave the rock that we are carrying since the beginning. A place full of emotions. It was raining and cold. I was very emotional, a movie of my life passed in my head. 

And all day I was watching this "movie" until we almost missed Ponferrada under the rain. Kenji was there in the entrance of the city again and maybe he was lost too so we called him to follow us because we are almost leaving the city and the rain is getting strong.

It was a long line in front of the albergue, our french friends from the albergue in Tosantos were there and they hugged me and said: Monica, Tosantos. I love them!

We are sharing the room with Kenji and a lady. Good people to share a room with.

Most of the historic sites are neatly condensed into the medieval city that occupies the high ground around the Templar Castle. We had a pleasure to enjoy our lunch right in front of this beautiful building. Today is Monday and they are closed :(

Day 23

June 5th

Astorga - Foncebadon - 27.2 km

Kevin have a very bad mood if he don't sleep enough. This is what's happen this morning. He decided to take all his hate on me. I started to walk faster but he started to scream. I don't know what was worse. I felt very sad. I couldn't get my confession, almost got hit by a lightning and now this :(. God give me patience!

I left him there and continued on my own not feeling so happy, not sure what to do about life. Very confused! 

Getting in Foncebadon was not easy, the climb is already on. Very charming town. Not too much happening. We invited Kenji and Sinval to have lunch with us. Traditional Medieval  food. Delicious meal! Kevin was treating better and feeling sorry. 

We are staying at an albergue operated by donation so we are helping her with dinner. Very nice lady. Elza, Bel and Jeane are staying here as well.

Day 22

June 4th

Villar de Mazarife - Astorga - 30.1km

I am having a great time now as things seems to be adjusted. This morning we pass by Hospital de Orbigo, they are having a medieval party today. Things are not ready yet but it sounds like fun, The Brazilians are staying here tonight. I had a coffee here and left. Everyday now we see different people, many new people are starting the camino. 

Today was a long walk and I am feeling tired, from the top of the hill we can see Astorga. The view from here is so amazing, the wines and the city. Perfect. 

We arrived at the albergue in Astorga with Bel and Jeane and it seems we are sharing the room as well. Nice! I love them! Surprise, there is one more Brazilian around us, Sinval from Porto Alegre and Julian from Madrid. 

Astorga is so pretty.The Museo de Gaudi is located here. Today is Sunday and people have lunch very late and as I am hungry decided to try their typical food. Kevin is not so happy about that but he came inside the restaurant with me. It was a little expensive but it was so much food and a great quality that was worth. 

Later at night started a very bad storm, right at the time for me to leave to church. I don't want to miss, I am trying to confess for so long. I left in the middle of the storm when I heard a very loud thunder and some people screaming. I saw some people looking to the church's bell and the alarm of a jewelry store going on and off. I had to go because I don't want to miss the Mass. The problem is that I don't know where the church is  and I am almost walking out of town and getting late and wet. Nobody in the streets because of the storm. Suddenly a lady got out of a car and I asked her. Finally I found the church but not on time for confession. 

Day 21

June 3rd

Leon - Oviedo (By Bus)

Leon - Villar de Mazarife - 20 km

Goodbye Oviedo, it was nice to visit you but we are going back to Leon and finish the "Camino Frances". We took the first bus from Oviedo at 7am and got in Leon about 9am and from the bus station we continued our journey. We had a delicious bocadillo in La Virgen del Camino, where the Virgen Mary came to a shepperd telling him to build here a church. The things of the camino! We had a nice time today, we don't feel any pain anymore. The backpack is built to our bodies. We are staying tonight at San Antonio's Albergue in Villar de Mazarife. Kevin is feeling great now, we even wander around the town in the afternoon and at night one of the Brazilian came here to chat. 

Day 20

June 2nd

Oviedo - Leon (by bus)

Leon - Villar de Mazarife - 21.1km

We left this morning with Dario, Luigi and Beatrice. Dario said that the walk from here to Leon is horrible. No place to walk but right beside the busy road and suggest for us to take a bus to Leon and start from there. Kevin and I decided to take a different route. As it seems like we are used to the walk and have some days extra on the schedule, we are going to Oviedo and maybe continue the camino from there. Oviedo is famous for The Sudarium of Oviedo, or Shroud of Oviedo, is a bloodstained cloth, kept in the Cámara Santa of the Cathedral of San Salvador. The Sudarium is claimed to be the cloth wrapped around the head of Jesus Christ after he died, as mentioned in the Gospel of John (20:6-7). We couldn't miss that. It was one of the best moments I had in my life. The blood of Jesus have power and you can feel it. The city is so pretty located by the mountains, so many that in my way here in the bus I got sick. Maybe I am not used to ride an automobile anymore.:) From here you can start the "Camino Primitivo". I don't know what to do, if we continue from here or go back tomorrow and stay at the camino frances. 

Day 19

June 1st

El Burgo Ranero - Villarente - 24.8km

We woke up this morning and Dario left a note for us saying that next stop should be Villarente. So we left a kind of late because we were not able to sleep well last night due to the cold weather. It was a peaceful walk. Later we saw Dario tiding his shoes, he was impress that Kevin is walking so fast compared to how he was. Passing Mansillas de las Mulas I saw Jeane and Bel, started to walk with her for some time. She decided to stop there for a coffee and I left. Here the walk until Villarente is very busy, have to cross the highway one time. Dangerous!   Villarente is a small town, we are staying at the San Pelayo albergue, a very well organized place. Dario, Kenji, the Hungarians, Luigi, Beatrice are staying here too. Dario is leaving to Milan tomorrow so tonight we are cooking him some dinner for his farewell. Peter from Hungary, Kevin, Dario and I went out to shop for some food. The spanish man that was mean to Kevin is staying here too. He came and apologize to me saying that was not acceptable what he did. I really apreciated his attitude. I guess he is feeling alone. I hope he can find his Camino.

It is sad to say goodbye to a friend but we are making plans to visit him in Milan after the Camino.

Day 18

May 31st

Terradillos de los Templarios - El Burgo Ranero - 30.9km

We had a hard time today to find the albergue next to the lagoon that Dario was talking about. It seems that we are not the only one. Luigui and Beatrice seems lost. They are following us. I hope I can find it. 

Dario, me and Maria

Found it, Dario is here waiting for us with a smile on his face. As we arrive early we went out for some lunch. For dinner Dario suggest for us make a community dinner. We went out and got some food to cook, Maria from Canary Island is helping us. We invited Kenji to join us. It is great to around nice people. At this albergue they had 2 options: bunk beds or wood cabin. It looks nice and only a couple more euros extra. We decided to take the cabin... what a mistake. It was a very cold night and we don't have sleeping bags and they have only one blanket per person. I could her next door the other cabin was Jeane and Bel and it seems they are wake until late as well maybe because they are cold too.

Day 17

May 30th

Carrion de los Condes - Terradillos de los Templarios - 26.8km

Not so much happening today, the meseta makes your brain to get tired.

We are staying in Terradillos de los Templarios tonight, is a very remote town. Maybe there is 5 people living in this town plus the pilgrims. We are staying at Jacques de Molay albergue with Dario. Later at night one of the German friends arrived. He left Emmanuel in Carrion de los condes and walked today about 40 km. He said he need some time alone but he was not able to get his traveler check cash there so he was out of money. We told him that we will help him tonight but the albergue lady told him it was full, no more beds left. Dario went there and spoke to her. She gave him a mattress to sleep in the hallway. I had a big meal for lunch so was not so hungry for dinner but Kevin and Dario had a Pilgrim Menu for dinner. On their table was also a Spanish/Canadian man who said he hated all Americans and started to be very aggressive to Kevin. That's when Dario told him that we are here only for the camino, and it means peace, nobody wants to make an enemy here. I was washing m clothes when this happen. Kenji is here too and the Brazilians are staying at the other albergue.

Day 16

May 29th

Boadilla Del Camino - Carrion de los Condes - 26.1km

Welcome to the "Meseta"! You walk, walk, walk and see the city. Gets happy and this takes forever to arrive to this city. Really great exercise for patience. Kevin and I are walking almost together so it is great.

When we arrive in Carrion de los Condes we saw Kenji sitting un the side of the street. We were not sure but maybe he don't know where is the albergue so we invited him to follow us to the Monatery of Santa Clara, where in the past when St Francis of Assis did his pilgrimage he stayed here. It is so interesting that we can't exchange a word with Kenji but it seems we understant each other. I really admire him, limping, praying and focus every day. We had some luch in a restaurante where later we saw Jeane and Bel again. Dario is here too but staying at a different albergue.

Day 15

May 28th

San Anton - Boadilla Del Camino - 23.8 km

This morning Alicia woke us up by the sound of her guitar and her voice. Amazing voice!

While passing by Castrojeriz I noticed where Luis showed me the pentagram at the church's window. Very strange!

During our walk today I noticed Kevin is feeling much better. We met our Brazilian friends Bel and Jeane again today. Dario told us to stay with him in Boadilla del Camino where he knew this albergue. The hospitaleiro Eduardo used to live in Brazil. Very nice place, they even had a pool. It was so busy, they were full but Eduardo said we will make it work. Gave us some mattress to sleep in the living room. It is just what we need.

Day 14

May 27th

Tardajos - San Anton - 26.3km

This morning I left very early on my own. Kevin is taking a bus and meeting me at San Anton or the next city. It was the first time I am walking by myself without anything to worry about. I can stop anywhere I want and for how long I want. It is windy today but great to walk. Not so many people on the path today. It pass so fast too. I arrived in San Anton around 1:30 pm and had the other half of my cheese/tomato bocadillo. San Anton is a magical place, is a ruins of a pilgrims hospital where the order of San Anton used to cure people. You can feel the energy here still. 

It was after 4pm and no sign of Kevin, the hospitaleiros and I started to get worried to he took his car, me and Chispita his god and left on a search for Kevin. First town, no Kevin. Second town, all the albergues but one left and he was there with Dario. He left with us. These people here made me feel at home, like they were my family. Alicia took care of Kevin's wounds and made us some delicious paella. Later we went to the other albergue San Nicolas to visit them with Luis and Alicia. There they washed our feet as Jesus did to his disciples. Very touching experience!

I will never forget what those people did for us! God bless Luis and Alicia from San Anton!

Day 13

May 26th

Atapuerca - Tardajos - 29 km

The day we met our lovely Italian friend Dario : )

Today was a hard day, hot and Kevin was very irritated. When we got to Burgos I was so hungry and wanted to eat but all the places I want to eat was not good for him. When we agreed on a place I went inside to order some hamburger and they said that only in the afternoon they serve food. Come on, it was after 12:30 pm, but anyway it may be because of the the way I am dressing. The same case in the past, I don't look so good for their place. Was leaving the place and checking for the money on my pocket when I realized the money is gone, I lost it. For the grace of God when I walked outside the money was right there in front of door. Unbelievable, more than 5 minutes later, with many people in and out and in a windy day the money was there still. So we kept on going without food, Kevin wants to stay in Burgos but I want to go to the next town, can't take too much of a bigger city. So we were walking and starving and without any knowledge about what we are going to do. I need to eat so bad. We stop in a park and had whatever we have on our backpacks, an apple and some peanuts. Enough energy to go to the next town. We are so tired and weak that we are walking so slow. For some reason we missed the town and I can't believe it. Kevin is focus on keep going and I am falling apart ready to sleep under a tree tonight. Around 4:30 we arrived in Tardajos and thankfully they have 3 beds available still. Guess who is here too? The orange man, Dario is his name and he is from Italy. When he saw us we hugged and smiled. 

I am very worried for Kevin's feet cause today we did so much and his blisters look very bad, infected. I went to the pharmacy to get him some anti-inflammatory. We decided that tomorrow he needs to rest, take a bus and meet me somewhere.

Day 12

May 25th

Tosantos - Atapuerca - 25.3km

We left late this morning, maybe because this place made me feel so good. I dont want to leave! We left walking together and at some point Kevin passed by me. It is a sign of him feeling better : ) Got some coffee at a bar in Villafranca and them Kevin started to walk slow again : ( As we left late we had to walk at the very hot sun and going up the hill. Not a good combination for me, was feeling sick. Some time during the walk under the sun I could smell sweet oranges and Hummm made me want some too. I saw a man standing and eating an orange, he smiled and offer me some. I had to accepted, it was very nice of him. It is so funny, like he could see what I was thinking. Kevin wanted me to wait for him but all I wanted is to get out of that sun and get there to rest. He got mad because of that. I went walking alone until the hospitaleiro of Granon got out of the bushes and joined me. He is feeling better today. We were planning to stay in San Juan tonight but when we got there we decided to go to the next town, there we meet the Germans friends and seems like the city is very busy. A little boy is taking them all over the town to show them the albergues and offering all kind of services. They got a little doubtful about that town and kept on going so we did the same. I can't believe on that. We are so tired and is so hot but we are on the road. Atapuerca seems very empty but looks nice and cozy. We are staying here. The German friends are staying with us at the same albergue. Kevin is very tired, I got him some iodine to help with his blisters. Went to the grocery with the Germans and we got some food for dinner. We had dinner with them. It was fun, Kevin was happy and trying to learn some words in German. Beside or albergue there is a abandoned church with a very nice view. I pause here for some time thinking. The sheep walking in the camp with the birds flying around. Such a nice feeling! Thank you My Lord!

Day 11

May 24th

Grañón - Tosantos - 21.9 km

Today I decided to take my time and walk beside Kevin. It was not so fun to loose him yesterday. Being a pilgrim you are using about the same clothes for many days, you are walking and sweating. Some people certainly don't like to see you inside of their establishment like that. Or maybe they don't like people. We stopped at a bar to get a sandwich for lunch and the counter person was not that friendly giving you a look that you are not so welcome there. This happened some time during the camino and all the times makes me feel so deeply sad. You are far from home and everything you are use to. Thinking of your whole life during the walks. When after a long journey you get to a place and receive THIS look, it is awful. Nobody never treated me that way before. It made me think how bad it must be for a homeless person. They don't have just a home, but they are treated like that all the time. I cried! 

In Beldorado when we were leaving the church the Korean girls called us and came running. They hugged us and gave a little doll for each of us. They said that is to give you strength so you can finish the Camino. The Camino it is just amazing, I was feeling so sad and God saw it and sent 2 girls to tell me what we need to hear. I cried again but now of happiness. I am so emotional these days. We are spending a night in Tosantos, the albergue is called: San Francis of Assisi. It is very rustic and simple here but it is all I need right now. The hospitaleiros are amazing, they are so welcoming that makes all my pain go again. It made me feel at home. More people started to arrive, the Germans and Frenches are here too. In the afternoon  our hospitaleiro took us to a lady in the town that have a key to a Ermita inside of a mountain. Very touching this place. This Albergue runs by donation and they invite you to help cook the meals. I was responsible for the salad, the Germans helped me too. It was fun, I sprinkled some spices in the salad that I had no idea what they were but it seems to work it out as the salad is all gone and their are clapping for me. So funny! It was all delicious. Kevin didn't help to cook so he is helping to serve the plates. Some prayers with the hospitaleiros after the meal and a nice sleep.

Day 10

May 23rd

Azofra - Grañón - 22.3km

We left Azofra this morning around 7am and Kevin was still sore so at some point he decided that if we walk beside the highway will be better for him but the trail takes us out of the highway. We split there, I went by the path and he follow the highway. We agree to meet at next town. I stopped at the next town to have some coffee and met Elizabeth from Denmark. We were there for 30 minutes and sign of Kevin, as he was taking a shortcut I interpreted that as his shortcut wouldn't pass by there so maybe his next town was Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Me and Elizabeth went together, talking and having so much fun walking to Santo Domingo. We had so much fun that in 40 minutes we arrived and as I couldn't see Kevin anywhere, me and Elizabeth went to the cathedral to visit the chickens that they keep there to remind about the miracle. I couldn't believe that they charge people to get in the church. I really don't support that, some pilgrims come with very little money or even without money and so they wouldn't be able to get inside a church? Well something to think about. 

We left the church and I am getting nervous because I don't see Kevin, I let Elizabeth go and I sat at a main square to wait. So I see Suzanne from California coming, she is staying at Granon but she forgot her walking poles here and came back to pick up. Just after she arrived Kevin got here and mad because we lost each other. 

Things are better now and he went to a pharmacy to get some medicine for his feet, we agreed on him taking a bus/cab to Granon cause his feet don't look any better. I left walking with Suzanne. She is trying to get a ride and I am walking in the path. So a car stopped and it was Kevin in his cab, hahaha. So funny! An hour later I meet them in Granon. What a lovely albergue. Is a donation one, right together with a church. Pretty, we have our clothes hanging right off the bell tower : ) The grass beside the church is green and full of flowers, made me feel in the paradise. In the afternoon we had yoga at this grass, it was great! At night a community dinner. Delicious pasta. We see that our Japanese friend is here too, he gave us an origami for good luck. Very nice of him.  Even without speaking English he can express his kindness.

Day 9

May 22nd

Navarrete - Azofra - 23 km

It was a wonderful day to walk, not hot neither cold. I was walking most of the time alone today as Kevin still walks very slow because of his blisters. I am feeling bad because I don't want him to give up and I can see it is a lot pain. He is taking a lot. When I arrived in Najera I waited for Kevin and we decided to go to next town, Azofra. As his conditions were not so great he took a bus until there and I moved by foot. I walked so fast but not on purpose, I was just so... I don't know... wanted to walk on my pace without worrying about Kevin left behind. Like that I knew he was going to be ok. I arrived in Azofra at noon just 5 minutes after Kevin that took the bus. Oh my, I really walked fast and the best of all, I am feeling great and Kevin too. The albergue here have many small rooms with 2 beds on it. It is very nice with a large kitchen and computers available. I was able to use the computer for free too, a girl left and offer me to use. Nice : ) We decided to have some lunch at the bar. Later Bel and Jeane arrived there too and joined us for lunch. Some resting time in the afternoon and at night me and Kevin cooked some dinner. The Australian and American ladies were taking care of Kevin's foot. Bent was feeling awful too and they both had their feet inside of bucket with water. They were not so sure if the water should be cold, warm or hot... Hahaha!!

Day 8

May 21st

Viana - Navarette (albergue municipal) - 22km

Marcelino El Peregrino

 Today we pass by Logrono, a  large university city with a population around 130.000, capital of La Rioja. Very good wines come from this region. Around 8 or 9 am we stopped to have some breakfast in Logrono, it was cold this morning and seems like no one lives here or maybe is too early and everyone still sleeping. 

The city is very well maintained, the camino signs here are everywhere. We kept on going, my legs are more used to the walk but Kevin still complains about his blisters and his knees. He would stop anywhere today and take a break in Logrono but I wanted to go, leave the city and all the insanity that comes with. Walking inside of a city makes me much tired cause you walk, walk, walk and it seems you still there. Right when you are leaving Logrono you pass through large and nice park. Kevin was so angry today that I couldn't take and had to walk miles in front of him, almost running so I could enjoy my walk. Somewhere near the Alto de la Grajera Marcelino el peregrino was there offering pilgrims snacks and walking sticks made from wood. I stopped there for a while so I could wait for Kevin and talk to him and the girl from Romenia that was there too. He said he knows Paulo Coelho and he walked with him through the camino. The Camino is really amazing! Some point near Navarette I stopped under a tree and waited longer for Kevin because I started to get worried about him. Many people passed by and waived while I was there thinking about life and how nice it is to be able to walk here. The girl from Romenia stopped there with me for a while too and later she left giving me a hug. Around 1 pm I saw Kevin coming and limping. Poor thing! He was mad still but the pain was bigger. I asked him if he would like to stay in Navarette today and he agreed. When we got to the albergue it was close still and was a line of backpacks there. Kevin sat there and waited while I went to the bar next door to have some lunch. I was starving. Kevin was so tired that he preferred to stay sleeping. It was a delicious meal, the menu del dia with a glass of Rioja wine. While the time was passing, more people arrived to the bar, Paul from Germany that was very sick in Cirauqui, he is here and feeling better, celebrating life with a beer. The other Germans and the Austrian boy. Stanley from England as well. I went to the church in the afternoon and when I got back Kevin was sitting at the bar and smiling next to Stanley, Paul and our Australian friend. They decided to go to a restaurant inside a hotel here where Stanley said it is very good. So we went all together. As I had such a big meal I only had some snacks that were delicious and as I saw the talking was going too far I left early. It was an amazing time!

Day 7

May 20th

Los Arcos - Viana (Albergue Andre Munoz) - 19 km

Last night we met an American girl who lives in Paris, her and Suzanne were sleeping when me and Kevin left this morning at 7:00 am. Ohhh no, it was so many people walking this morning that looks like we were in a excursion : ( Kevin was so annoying today : ( Complaints and more complaints. We decided to stop at Viana, very nice town. It was full. We stayed in an albergue that they had three-story bunk beds. I got to talk with my mom in the internet today : )

Monica

Day 6

Where the Pilgrim died :_(

May 19th

Cirauqui - Villamayor de Monjardin - 23.7km

Villamayor - Los Arcos (by taxi) - 11.5km

Today was a hot day and no trees beside the trail : ( Early in the morning people were talking about a pilgrim that died the day before and walking this morning we pass through the spot where he passed away : _( I felt so sad. I left him some flowers made a prayer and left : ( Suzanne passed by and did the same. This event made me sad for the entire day. 

Today we passed by the wine fountain. 

When we arrived in Villamayor de Monjardin was about 3:30pm and one of the albergues was no longer open and the other one was full : ( Kevin was exhausted and refused to walk to the next town (Los Arcos) We sat in front of the church and soon arrived Suzanne, we gave her the bad news. So we voted and 2 x 1. They won, we are going to take a taxi until the next albergue : ( Awww, I feel so sad, I don't want to take a taxi!!! We stayed in Los Arcos at Casa Alberdi. They were very concerned about the money you are paying : ( (not too much a pilgrim way of doing things) We saw Bent again : ) I went to the pilgrim mass and went to bed.                                           

Wine Fountain

Day 5

May 18th

Zarikiegi - Eunate - Cirauqui - 23.4km

I woke today feeling great and happy. I am now realizing what is the camino and feeling the camino : )

I feel that the camino so far is a meeting, with yourself, people of many cultures and faiths, words and thoughts. We meet people, we lose people and later on we meet again. We left Zarikiegi early at 5:00 am with Bent and Suzanne. It was a good walk, not hot and pretty empty. Later on me and Kevin took a path to Eunate Church and Suzanne and Bent went the other way. Very pretty church, full of energy, we were able to enter and make a prayer. I really felt like a pilgrim today : ))) They had an albergue beside the church and the people that works there are volunteers. They treat you like a person : D A really nice person! We had some sausage sandwich there and kept on going. For our surprise walking through Puente de La Reina we saw Bruce (Our American friend from day1). It was so nice to see that he got his luggage and is doing the camino. He was going to the albergue and we had some km to go. Gave him a sweet good bye and went away until our body said no more at Cirauqui. We enter in an albergue and there was Suzanne again : ) The people of this albergue were sooo nice!!! Met Maria Luiza (Brazilian from Rio), Francois (Belgium), Peter (Germany) and Cristine (France). We had a delicious meal with them, laughing and talking. It was great to leave very early, we are going to do this again tomorrow.

Monica

Day 4

May 17th

Pamplona - Zarikiegi - 11 km

We left Pamplona at 11:00am and about 12:00pm we were in Cizur Menor. We saw Bent again going up the hill and invited him to stop and have some lunch with us. We got some bread and ham and made some sandwichs. Found a great park and we sat down to have our lunch. It was hot today. After  1 more hour going up we arrived in Zarikiegi and the village is so nice and cozy. We went to the albergue to see if they have any beds left. Suzanne from California she opened the door and greeted us. Very nice albergue, she doesnt work there but the owner went to the grocery store. I feel so good here. Great view of the montains! Me and Kevin had a picnic on the patio of the church listening to the bees inside of this old church. : ) Very nice day!

Day 3

May 16th

Larrasoaña - Pamplona - 17.6km

Oh man, we are exhausted!!!! Left Larrasoana at 7:00 am and Kevin seems to be walking better but not 100%. He was walking very slow. I think that like that we are not going to arrive anywhere and it makes me so sad. I want to do this so bad. Everybody passing through us : ( We finally got to Arre and stopped at a pharmacy to get some medicines to Kevin. Walking through the city Kevin was more motivated and we decided to stop at Pamplona to have some rest. A short day because we really need. As we were in the middle of the city and no albergue near we went to Pension Otano, very well located and 40 euros a night for 2 people. We need a good night of sleep. We used the Internet and had some dinner. Time to wash some clothes, it was nice because we had a balcony where the clothes could be hung. Too tired after dinner, I am going to sleep.

Monica

Day 2

May 15th

Roncesvaux - Larrasoaña - 25km

Kevin and Bent (from Denmark)

We woke up late if you consider the other people around. We left Roncesvaux at 7:30 am and it was pretty the day with many sheep and trees around. Stopped at Burguete/Auritz for some breakfast. It was busy, the Brazilians were there too and our Irish friend too. Going down the hill we met Bent our Danish friend, like Kevin both had their knees sore. I was walking faster so I left them to walk together. When we arrived in Zubiri Bent went to a albergue and stayed there. We had a break in a church square and kept going to Larasoana, the longest 5km of my life : / and probably worse for Kevin that was already about to give up. We got in Larasoana about 4:00 pm and they had some beds left in the municipal : ) The albergue have 50 beds but only 2 showers : ( So it means I stayed in line for more than 30 minutes. The city is very small and later on all the albergues were full and they had only 1 place to eat. It means it was full and crazy, they were almost serving cold pizza and people would accept. We were lucky to be able to get a warm and a hot pizza (pizza was the only thing available). After that no more energy for anything, time to sleep. I hope Kevin feels better tomorrow.

Monica

The Beginning - Day 1

May 14th

St. Jeand Pied de Port - Roncesvalles - 27.1 km

We arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port last night and slept in the albergue Coq Du Chemin. Its more like a women's house where she rent some of her rooms for pilgrims. 10 euros per person without breakfast. We got up early in the morning about 7:00 am and it was raining. As we were not able to leave our extra luggage in Paris we had to stop at the post office before start our journey.  (I want to start it so bad) The post office wont be open until 9:00 am so we decided to have some breakfast and on our way to the bakery we found Bruce, our friend from USA that we met in the train station. After some coffee we still have some time before 9:00 o'clock, so we went to the pilgrim office and got the maps we needed and our shell. The lady that helped us said even if is raining would be better to go through the mountain because it is Saturday and the road to Spain would be busy and is much nicer the view from the mountain. We went back to the post office and it was so busy, we were only able to leave there around 10:45 am : ( Ok, now we are ready to start, Bruce walked with us until the end of the city. As we left late we decided to stay at the first albergue, the Orisson. Cold, foggy, raining and leaving late it was hard to find people around. We only met a Italian couple walking around. When we stopped at Orisson for our disappointment the albergue was full and they only had tents to rent. As we didn't have any blankets or sleeping bag, we had no choice but kept going. Maybe the view from the mountain was nice but the only problem is that we couldn't see anything because of the fog, I heard sheep and horses but couldn't see. Only at one point we saw a female horse with a baby horse. What a bad luck because the male horse didn't like us around their baby and start chasing us. Awww, running up the mountain with a backpack : ( Not Fun! We hide behind a big rock and stayed there for a while. Good time to have a break and have some food.

After a while walking up the mountain in the cold rain we arrived at the Col de Lepoeder (1450m) and was winding very strong. We were not able to see anything. From this point now we only need to get down. As we were so tired and cold and could see the arrows to well and instead of going the right way we went through the forest when the lady at the pilgrim office said not to take. Too late and too steep. We arrived at 7:00 pm. I was so tired and hungry. Roncesvalles was so busy. I couldn't barely walk, had some pilgrim menu at the restaurant and went to the room. Met Elza, Brazilian from Florianopolis. Very tired, my knees hurt like crazy.

Monica